Tool

Kaftan Pattern Generator

Pick your design, enter three measurements, and the generator drafts every piece to scale. The body panels are cut at your shoulder width, the way the surviving garments are; the side gores are shaped at the top to make up the difference and fit the body, then flare to the hem. Front gores on the straight center-front edges add fullness below the waist, and there are three sleeve choices. Background on the garment is in my Ottoman costuming basics handout.

Design

Length

Fit

Sleeves

Measurements

Shoulders shoulder seam to shoulder seam, straight across the back Chest around the fullest part, over the layers the kaftan will cover Waist around the natural waist — the body is sized on the larger of chest and waist Fabric width optional — for the layout and yardage below

Everything else is derived: ease from the fit choice, armscye from girth, gore widths from the body, waist at 16″ below the shoulder, wrist at 24″. Seam allowance is not included.

Pattern dimensions

P	Panel width — each front; back is 2 × P
L	Panel length, shoulder to hem
A	Armscye depth — sleeve fold to underarm
S	Sleeve width, opened flat (2 × A)
N	Sleeve length
C	Cuff opening, flat
M	Moon cutout radius
DN	Detachable sleeve length
DW	Detachable sleeve width, flat
T	Side gore width at the top, at the underarm
U	Underarm gusset — square
G	Side gore — height × width at hem
F	Front gore — height × width at hem

All dimensions rounded up to the nearest ½″. Seam allowance is not included — add your usual as you cut.

Cutting diagram — all pieces

Assembled view — front

Shaded pieces are the gores. Cut the neckline after the shoulder seams are sewn — start shallow and deepen to taste.

Construction

Sew the two front panels to the back at the shoulders.
Cut the neckline — a shallow curve at first, deepened after a fitting.
Sew each sleeve to the body, centering the sleeve on the shoulder seam, everything still flat.
Set the underarm gusset (U, square) into the armpit: one point up into the sleeve underarm seam, one down into the gore top, the two sides into the front and back panel edges.
Sew the top edge of each side gore (T, ) to the underside of the sleeve at the armpit, up to the gusset.
Sew the long edges of each side gore to the front and back panel edges, from the underarm ( below the shoulder) down to the hem — this closes the sides and fits the body in one seam per edge.
Sew the underarm seam of each sleeve from the opening end to the gusset.
Sew a front gore to each straight center-front edge, wide end at the hem, starting below the shoulder at the waist.
Sew each detachable sleeve into a tube. Face the body armhole edge and the sleeve top. Sew loops to the armhole facing and silk-wrapped buttons along the detachable sleeve top, then button them in under the elbow sleeves.
Face the front edges (iç astar), then finish the hem and cuffs. Line the body if you're lining.
Close the front with silk-wrapped buttons (düğme) and thread loops — loops, not buttonholes. Add çaprast down the front and at the cuffs if you like.